Boarding Pass: OPO
Photo map of Porto. Click image for interactive map.
Everyone loves Porto. You’ll never hear a bad word about it. I’m certainly not going to be the first, what’s not to love? A beautiful city full of interesting things, with weather that’s somehow pefect even when it’s not. The inevitable comparisons are made to Lisbon, but they are complementary rather than competetive. Porto keeps it compact, while Lisbon sprawls. Porto chills while Lisbon parties. Porto relaxes while Lisbon energizes. I’ve been to both, and I love them both for different reasons. I took up photography a few months after visiting Lisbon and I haven’t been back yet, so Porto put the first Portuguese photons on my sensor.
We arrived in the evening, after a two-hour flight from London. A train soon arrived to whisk us into the heart of Lisbon. A short walk from the station brought us to our hotel, Chic and Basic Gravity. It was a perfect base for a quick trip. Boutique, eccentric, and steps away from great photographic opportunities. Off to a great start.
The rain didn’t slow me down.
After a fantastic breakfast, spurred by more coffee than any human should ever drink, we hit the streets. And the rain came down. No worries! I had a rain cover, there were plenty of archways to provide shelter, and who doesn’t love a moody portait of a tile-covered building? It wouldn’t last long; the sun came out, and the rest of the day was gorgeous. I was able to shoot some great street scences, and then mixed it up with some shots of peacocks at Crystal Palace Gardens.
The city boys strut at Crystal Palace Gardens.
A walk down an interesting street led a stunning overlook across the Douro River. There were incredible of views of all the port wineries on the south bank. Especially impressive were the iconic silhouettes of the Sandeman logo, which were enormous and numerous. I am notoriously, preferentially, and unashamedly a wide angle shooter. However, a wide angle lens is not always the weapon of choice, even when presented with an expansive panorama. My 70-300mm zoom was the perfect tool for the job, giving exactly the field of view I wanted for those photos.
There’s always someone watching.
I absolutely had to photograph the famed Livraria Lello (as much to compare it with El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Buenos Aires as anything), but the line outside around noon was insane. I opted to buy tickets for later that day, about an hour before closing. Enough time to shoot, no waiting, and a nice stop on the way to dinner. Shooting there was a challenge, as it was absolutely packed with people. Thanks to my 14mm lens and a willingness to wait for an opening, I was able to capture the architectural elements and cozy feel of the space without betraying my desire to run screaming out the front door to get away from the crush of the crowd. Wide angle lenses aren’t just for landscapes and real estate; they allow the photographer to get between distractions and the subject.
Opportunity strikes at Livraria Lello.
The Douro River divides the city center in the north from the port wineries to the south. The iconic Luis I Bridge connects the north and south banks, and provides both train and pedestrian access. I could not have asked for a better view back toward the city, or for more interesting boats to shoot. With the bridge as a powerful, striking background, I couldn’t miss. We spent a great day strolling along the south bank of the river, then we rode the gondola up to the bridge for the walk back across. As we walked, we spotted some umbrellas on a patio overlooking the bridge on the city side. It took a few twists and turns, but we managed to find it once we reached the other side. For the price of a Diet Coke, I was able to set up my Gorillapod on a table on the patio and shoot long exposures of the people and trains on the bridge as the sun set. It was not something I anticipated or planned, but was one of my favorite moments of the trip.
Passing time on the north bank of the Douro River.
The two full days in Porto were filled with shooting and sightseeing, but were not exhausting. The compact layout of the city combined with fantastic public transit left plenty of time to recharge between excursions. Despite the relative density of the city, its topography and jawdropping views prevent any feelings of claustrophobia. Porto has nothing to prove; there is nowhere else like it. This second city is second to none.
