Boarding Pass: MEX (Condesa Go-Around)
A visual metaphor for La Condesa: a whimsical green chair under a shade tree.
You know how a song gets stuck in your head? Cities can do that, too. Twenty-four hours in Mexico City lodged that ciudad deep into my grey matter. The first trip was in Februrary 2020, before travel was considered the eighth deadly sin. By October, when this trip took place, Mexico was one of the few countries still welcoming tourists without onerous requirements. A mask and a health form, and you were all set. At that time, I could still get back into my own country without testing requirements (let’s not go there here). Since options were narrow, all the more reason to go back to Mexico.
The first trip was purpose-built around an event and density of photographic opportunities. As you do, we had learned a lot more about Mexico City after visiting. We were intrigued by the Roma and La Condesa neighborhoods, which were portrayed as hip, arty, and more residential than the center. A hotel across from Parque México seemed like a perfect home base in La Condesa.
The fickle mistress that is standby flying pushed our arrival back to late Saturday night, so we just headed straight to Casa Malí and crashed. Awaking earlier than anyone thought the next morning (didn’t realize that was the “Fall Back” weekend in Mexico), we patiently waited for El Moro to open so we could devour those churros. We sat on the rooftop of our hotel with cafecitos from the lobby and our delicious breakfast, watching the sun come up and reveal the dream that is La Condesa.
Golden hour always flips the photography switch, and it was about that time. The park was absolutely full of people walking their dogs and going for their morning walks and runs. So many people, and yet the predominant sound was the rustling of the light breeze in the trees. Tranquility. I shot around the park, and then ventured into the surrounding streets.
One of the many impressive murals of Roma Norte.
They are frequently mentioned in the same breath, but there is a distinct polarity between La Condesa and neighboring Roma. Both are about vibrant creativity and vivacious daily life, but with vastly different methods of execution. Street art reigned in Roma, with colorful and politically emphatic murals on almost every street. If La Condesa was about tree-lined quietude, Roma felt like more of a futuristic concrete jungle. But in a good way. Roma raises the heart rate, Condesa brings it down again. Roma is a confrontation; Condesa is a comfort. The essence of each is sharpened by its contrast with the other. A pairing made in heaven, but definitely not interchangeable.
Shooting in the middle of the day is usually not anyone’s first choice. However, I found the harsh light complemented the in-your-face style and messages of the street art in Roma. A circular polarizer helped salvage the highlights in bright skies and light-colored, reflective walls. Just don’t forget to remove that CPL when you cross the street back into the shade. Save the noise for the traffic.
A few prime photo spots in La Condesa and Roma Norte. Click image for interactive map.
That evening, I put the camera away and put the battery on the charger. My bodyguard metamorphosed into my dinner date, and we watched La Condesa slip into something more comfortable for the evening. The sun went down, the lights came up, and the magic intensified. Market lights and soft music provided a perfect ambience for our walk to dinner. In the space of one full day, the beating hearts of Roma and La Condesa had revealed their rhythms to us. Another travel spell had been cast.
This was another quick city break, less than 48 hours jet bridge to jet bridge. By focusing on specific neighborhoods, La Condesa and Roma, we were able to make the most of our time. Light and shadow, intensity and repose, audacity and serenity. Each makes the other more distinct and memorable. The next avenue over may be a world away. Cross the street.
