Boarding Pass: FDF
Photo map of Martinique. Click on image for interactive map.
Islands, man. I’ll never understand them. Some of them throw themselves at you. Others play hard to get. Why do they do it? Maybe we should ask Martinique, that coy minx. Look at her, sitting right in the middle of the Lesser Antilles, the sky overhead full of planes taking visitors to neighboring islands like St. Lucia and Barbados. But Miss M? It’s easier to get a flight there from Paris or Montreal than from Miami. Not so long ago, you couldn’t even get there from here. Enticed, we boarded one of the 3-times-weekly flights from MIA to FDF to see for ourselves whether le jus was worth la compression.
Caribbean islands can be tricky to navigate by road, especially the mountainous ones. Between the tortuous roads and frequent traffic congestion, you’re generally not getting anywhere fast. We were pleasantly surprised by a nice motorway as we left the airport in Fort-de-France, but that only lasted for a few miles as we headed south toward Le Diamant. Since we arrived early in the afternoon, we decided to stop by Les Anses d’Arlet so I could photograph the iconic church there before we circled back to check in at Hotel Diamant Les Bains.
The iconic shot of Église Saint-Henri Des Anses-d'Arlet from the pier.
We parked in the town, I got my shots from the pier, and we headed back to pick up the car. As we walked toward the parking lot, we saw a procession of vehicles and well-dressed people on foot coming toward us on the road. It was a funeral procession on its way to the church. We stepped to the side of the road and paid our silent respects to the mourners and the deceased as they passed by. Despite the sad nature of the occasion, this was an impactful introduction to the local culture that we could never have expected to witness. Our route to the hotel brought us by Mémorial Cap 110, a field of stone statues commemorating the victims of a slave ship that wrecked against the coast. Martinique is beautiful, complicated, and brave enough to let the dark days of its history stand in the sunlight. It hasn’t been easy, and you won’t forget it. We got settled into the hotel, and then went down the road for a true-to-its-name casual dinner at Chill.
Remembering the tragic past at Mémorial Cap 110.
The next morning dawned hot and bright, perfect for a scamper around beautiful beaches of southern Martinique. We followed the coast to Plage de Pointe Marin, then continued south to Plage des Salines. Little did I know that we were about to make some new finned friends. We waded into the shallow water and made our way down the beach away from the crowd. As I was taking photos of the colorful restaurant on the point, Jay told me to look down. I always have a circular polarizer on my lens when I shoot on sunny days, and that habit served me well as juvenile Caribbean reef sharks swam around our feet hunting fish. As I was shooting with my 24-105 mm lens, I was able to zoom out wide and focus on them as they swam around us. These are the encounters that have turned me into a wildlife photographer; it’s so much more than getting the shot. And if you miss the shot? You still had the experience. It’s a win, no matter what.
Meeting friends with fins at Plage des Salines.
After cooling off with a beverage at the beach bar, we got back on the road to Anse Michel. This was an even more remote beach, and therefore a less crowded one. Its location on the windward side of the island made it a little wilder and more suited to windsurfing than laying in the sand. The driftwood shapes framed the gorgeous waves perfectly. After a hike back up to the car, we were getting hungry. We found a fabulous little restaurant in the absolute middle of nowhere and had lunch al fresco with an insane view.
The artistry of the wind and waves at Anse Michel.
Headed northward, we made a stop at Habitation Clement, then crossed the island from east to west to pass through the capital, Fort-de-France. We didn’t stay long there, as we wanted to make it north to St. Pierre and still be back at the hotel by dark. St. Pierre was the site of the devastating eruption of Mont Pelée in 1902, which destroyed the town. I photographed the ruins, then I turned around. The sun was setting, weather was moving in, and a fisherman was on his boat bringing in the last catch of the day. The light was breathtaking, and the scene was perfect. With my lens hood to cut the glare, I faced the setting sun and took some of my favorite photos of the trip. We made it back to hotel and treated ourselves to a low-key evening with hot showers and a pizza from the place down the street. Full of fromage, it was off to sleep for a well-deserved rest after a very full day.
Almost quitting time at St. Pierre.
Our flight home was departing in the afternoon, so we were able to enjoy a leisurely breakfast and a relaxed morning. Jay wanted to go for a swim in the ocean, so I grabbed my camera and headed into the town of Le Diamant for some more photography. Back at the hotel, I got some fun shots of the lizards and birds in the gardens. Even on quick trips like this, it’s important to take some downtime in the moment to recharge and reflect.
And so the mysterious Martinique was finally revealed. I always thought it was an island with secrets, but it wears its scars with pride and dignity. Martinique confronted me with its contrasts, and now I’m even more intrigued.
